As part of my promise to myself this year is to reduce my fabric stash, and because I had enough linen left over from making my skirt to make them, I have started on the coifs I will need if we do Kentwell next year. This will give me a few less items to fret over this time next year and also means that I won’t have a bit of linen hanging round that’s not quite big enough to make clothing out of but certainly too big to throw away!
I did a prototype in cheap cotton with the intention that I could use it to keep my hair clean when we were painting at work. I’m one of those people who, no matter how hard I try, always end up painty so keeping my curls out of harms way was an important consideration. There are a few different patterns knocking about on the web but all of them have no sizing etc included and thus expect you to do that pattern scaling up thing that people who are good at sewing probably do in seconds and mere mortals like me get all stressed over. I eventually decided taht the easiest way would be to download the image off The Tudor Costume Page’s Coif instructions and play with the printer. I printed it as a “poster” over 4 pages, stuck it together, cut it out and “tried it on” It was a little big but it gave me a good start point. I used the red line that she marks as the stitching line as a guide to trim it down a bit, chopped about a cm off either end and that was then okay-ish so I made my brim from that and sewed the two pieces up along the outer edge (leaving the ends open and the bit where the centre piece fits in unstitched). It was at this point that I realised that the picture on the site isn’t actually a proper mirror image so I have a wonky brim. No matter, I corrected that on my paper pattern (well, duh, that will teach me not to fold a pattern in half and check before I cut won’t it!) and decided that, for this prototype a bit of wonkiness wouldn’t matter. I needed to make a fairly big seam at the back so that it was a snug fit at the nape of my neck and then I moved onto working out what to do for the centre.
Now, the lady at the Tudor Costume Page was a little vague on this bit. She used her biggest cook pot to draw round but didn’t say how big her pot was leaving me with not much idea of how big it needed to be….. I used my stock pot and discovered that, after tacking it into the brim, I obviously have bigger cookware than she does!!!! Moving swiftly on
I actually engaged my brain a bit and tried again. I put the brim onto my head, plaited up and pinned up my hair and then measured from the brim at the nape, over the fullness of my hair and to the brim at the front. I added a good inch on for seams and cut out a circle with that diameter. Well, I say circle… it’s not, I didn’t draw it, I eyeballed it so it’s slightly squarish in places but I doubt anyone will notice.
The next bit is fiddly and I think there may be a better way to do it if I were to sit and think about it but anyway. I marked each 1/4 of the centre and the brim, threaded up my needle with enough thread to do a running stitch all the way round the centre piece and did loose sts all round, about an inch in from the edge. Then I pinned the 1/4 marks on one piece of the brim to the centre and carefully gathered it all up so that the centre fitted the brim and went mad with the pins. Once I’d made a fairly good impression of a hedgehog I backstitched it all into place, swearing regularly as I got stabbed by one of the excessive number of pins. After that it’s just a case of turning the brim right side out, rolling a hem onto the side of the brim not already sewn to the centre, pinning it and carefully stitching it down so that the join between the brim and the centre is enclosed inside the two layers of brim. I whip stitched that down, trying to hide the stitches as much as possible on the grounds that, if I put it on “inside out” by mistake no one would know the difference as the stitches would be hidden. In retrospect I should have either ironed the brim or at least pinned it with the hems properly pushed out so that the two sides of teh brim were definitly laying flat to each other which doesn’t quite happen in my prototype but it’s not wonky enough to really be noticeable.
The final result was a little deep in the brim, looking alarmingly like a prairie bonnet at the front, but a really good fit and stayed on really comfortably regardless of what I was doing. As a bonus, it also fitted Aprilia and all her hair too. So, based on that, and keeping all my little oops moments in mind, I then cut out the linen for the “proper” ones and spent an evening each on those. I took a few pictures but forgot to photograph the really fiddly bit when the centre is being gathered onto the brim. Just imagine lots of wrinkly fabric and a billion pins and you will have the general idea. They really are quite quick once you stop being all brain dead and start thinking about it properly!















